Help!!!
 

I have been repainting many of the TMNT figures from the original series (and the early 90's as well). I am getting fairly confident (pics soon:)) I am trying my first total custom of a figure and need some help. I want to dismantle a Movie Star Foot Soldier I have a double of but can't get the body apart. I'm afraid of damaging the figure overall. Head pops off but leaves the stem it connects too just like the legs. Best way to get the plastic body apart without breaking it?

When I have to crack a figure open, I'll take a VERY sharp X-acto blade and score along all the seams until I'm through to the other side, then I'll take a couple of small, flat screwdrivers and try and prise the 2 halves apart. Some figures come apart easier than others, but all the TMNT figures I've cracked have come apart rather cleanly.

Thanks for the info, I'll give that a try. I want this to turn out well so I don't want to screw it up before I even really get started lol

Interesting! NONE of the TMNT figures I've tried to crack apart came easily -- all (three) of them were reinforced throughout the torsos by pretty sturdy supports. But if you're just repainting a vintage TMNT figure, I don't see why you'd even want/need to dismantle it? The legs can pop off with some heat, and the shoulders have a pin joint you can heat/pop off as well.

The only time you really need to crack a torso is if you plan to do something like a full arm/leg transplant.

The Movie Star Foot Soldier figure has the swivel hinge joints for the shoulders. The legs pop right off with ease. Head too. But I need to pop the body apart to get the "neck" piece out and transfer the head of another figure to it. Then it's re-glue and new paint job. I really just need the head off the figure, I don't want to have to drill out the future head of the figure to glue it on...cracking it open seemed to be easier. I have a Casey Jones figure that I am customizing that was broke open and I fixed it...but I don't want to damage this M.S. Foot Soldier...I want this to turn out well..

-->> I usually whale on mine with a hammer...

:teek::teek:

Looking at the figure overall, and what I want to do with/to it...I'm thinking i'm going to have to cut and drill out the head of my "transfer" figure to make it work...
that will save me from cracking the body open.

Clear coat/Gloss finish on figures.
 

On a side note, I have been using the same clear coat gloss sealer on my figures with great results. My wife bought me a new can but different brand/type and I used it this morning to clear a custom painted figure and it either puddled up in spots and dried (not clear) or it ate the acrylic paint I used to repaint. Curious to know what type of gloss/clear coating you guys use on repaints?

What were you using?

You have to use an acrylic-based sealer, otherwise it could react with the paints (as it looks like you've found out). I either use Games Workshop's satin spray varnish or Humbrol's matt acrylic spray.

I use acrylic paints. I was using a cheapo craft clear coat sealer and it worked wonderful (left the figures shiny but not bad looking). This type clearly had a reaction and looks to have ate the acrylic paint in spots that it was heavy...

I use TESTORS spray laquer matte finish on all my customs. I haven't had any problems with it what so ever and I think it only cost me around $3 for the can.

Thanks for the info, I'll give it a shot.

I've got one that has a torso that is already almost completely cracked open from age.

I ended up not cracking the torso on this figure open. Worked out better. Others I have do seem to wear out and crack in places in the torso. So do, some don't.

I guess that you aren't interested in my repaint or the unpainted one that can be opened up, then.

Repaint or unopened? photos?

I have an unopened Movie Star Foot Soldier in my collection. I used my opened (played with condition) to make this custom but I would love to get my hands on another to make another custom from it :)