Well at a glance it seems like your concern is born of the plastic thickness of the weapon as measured against an "original run". I can't speak to that per se, but I can say that 10-back isn't entirely an "original run" given that there is no Turtle Club insert packed behind the figure in the bubble.
I can't scrutinize the fine print very well because of the photo resolution, but there's nothing that stands out to me as "fake".
I can say that there are tells of true counterfeiting. A buddy of mine and I were at a Disc Replay store about two years back. They had a bunch of boxed G2 Transformers for sale there and I asked if they were authentic or if they were the modern re-issues. The employee was a little dodgy and gave me the "we don't know but they came in on a collection and that's all we can go by". So I looked at a few of them at found some overlapped printing on the box art - presumably from a **** scanning and pasting job for whoever actually printed the faux boxes. You should have seen the employee clutch up when I pointed it out - I honestly couldn't tell if it was because he knew and I caught it, or if it was because he didn't know and I caught it. :lol:
My point? Re-releases and re-cards are so common now that often all you can do is look for obvious or semi-obvious tells, otherwise it is what it is. I hate to say that but it is what it is.
On another note - maybe you can check the glue lines on the bubble. A lot of the original Playmates stuff gets re-sealed because they lose integrity from the card to the bubble. Everything is authentic, but you can always look at the glue lines for "old" glue, versus "re-sealed" glue, versus a "crisp and new glue job" that might help a bit.
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